2021 Arnaldo-Caprai, Grecante, Grechetto dei Colli Martani + Central Provision’s Razor Clams

 
 
 
 

Wine Club Members, you’re in for a real treat… Chef and Owner Chris Gould of Central Provisions and Tipo shares one of his favorite recipes to pair with the 2021 Arnaldo-Caprai’s “Grecante,” included in this month’s March Explorer whites deliveries. You can also read more about it and purchase it in our Explorer Italian Whites 6-bottle set if you, too, want to experience this absolutely incredible wine and food pairing from one of the country’s top restaurants and chefs located right here in Portland, Maine.

This recipe is a bit advanced, and truth be told, when writing this, you can make a reservation at Central Provisions (highly recommended) and order this dish right off their menu. Or you can dive in and make it at home to enjoy it with this beautiful wine that’s made from the native Umbrian grape Grechetto. It is pale yellow-green with notes of ripe green apple and honeydew melon, fresh squeezed lime and grapefruit, and floral notes of freesia and hawthorn—that remind us of a spring and summer in full bloom! On the palate, the wine is dry and balanced with a medium body, medium-plus acidity, and a driving minerality that is complimented so beautifully by the concentration of orchard and citrus fruits… all lingering on the palate and delivering a crisp, delicious, and satisfying finish.

This wine makes a perfect pairing with the citrusy, salty, and savory Razor Clam dish that Chef Gould invited us to prepare with him. Razor Clams are a Maine delicacy typically harvested around the full moon, when the low tide is much lower than usual, exposing the sand where they are found.

One last thing!
We’ve given you the recipe to make the delicious Smoked Anchovy Aioli and Preserved Citrus Condiment in bulk, they are incredible additions to fish, vegetables and anything else you want to add a burst of flavor. If refrigerated, the aioli will stay well for 7 days, and the preserved mandarin dressing will last for a month.

RECIPE:

Razor Clams with Citrus, Calabrian Chili and Smoked Anchovy Aioli

 

Yields

2 servings

Prep Time

1 Hour + Overnight Prep

Cook Time

1 hour

 
 

Equipment list

  • Sauté pan

  • Paring knife

  • Microplane

  • Mixing bowl

  • Kitchen Scale

INGREDIENTS

  • 1lb Cleaned Razor Clams

  • Yeast Batter *

  • Preserved Citrus Condiment **

  • Smoked Anchovy Aioli ***

  • Salt 

  • Canola oil

  • Maldon’s Sea Salt

  • Navel Orange

  • Microgreens (micro arugula or Russian kale)

  • Optional: Pinch Phytoplankton Powder ****

*Yeast Batter ingredients

  • 1/2 Cup All-purpose flour

  • 1/2 Tbsp SAF instant baker’s yeast

  • 1 Cup warm water

  • 1/2 tsp salt

*Yeast Batter Recipe

  1. Combine all the yeast batter ingredients in a bowl and mix to combine

  2. Hold in a warm spot and let ferment for 45 - 60 minutes before use

**Preserved Citrus Condiment ingredients

  • 230 g Preserved mandarin and blood orange ** See chef’s note

  • 100 g Shallot, diced

  • 20 g Parsley, chopped 

  • 10 g Calabrian chili

  • 45 g Orange Agrumato

  • 10 g Chardonnay forum vinegar

**Preserved Citrus Condiment ingredients (Makes one pint)

  1. Leave the citrus overnight, covered in sugar and salt, to preserve them. If you do this, you can quarter them with the rind still on and pop them into a food processor to mince the rest of the ingredients.

  2. Sauté the chopped garlic and shallots together for a few minutes, then combine all ingredients in a food processor to mince until incorporated but coarse, like the consistency of pesto.

***Smoked Anchovy Aioli Ingredients

  • 1 Cup Bonito flakes (Can be found at Sun Oriental)

  • ¼ Cup Anchovies in oil

  • ½ Cup Shallot, sliced

  • 3 clove Garlic, smashed

  • 1 ea 4” piece kombu

  • 1 quart Canola oil

  • 3 ea Soft-boiled eggs

  • 1 T Fish sauce

  • 1 T Agave

  • 1 T Sherry vinegar

  • ½ t MSG

  • Smoked salt to taste

***Smoked Anchovy Aioli recipe (Makes 5 cups)

  1. Combine bonito, shallot, garlic, anchovies, konbu, and oil in a saucepan and heat to 250 F 

  2. Turn off the heat and let it cool to room temp.

  3. Combine eggs, fish sauce, agave, sherry vinegar, and MSG in a food processor.

  4. While running, add the anchovy mixture from above slowly to emulsify

  5. Season with salt

Instructions

  • Rinse the clams and, using a small paring knife, tease the length of the body of the clam away from its shell (Photo 1)

  • Trim the stringy belly away from the rest of the siphon part (Photo 2)

  • Coat the clam bellies lightly in flour (Photo 3)

  • Dip each floured clam belly into the batter using tongs or tweezers (Photo 4)

  • Heat three inches of canola oil in a shallow pan on medium-plus heat until 350* F)

  • Drop the bellies in individually with tongs, moving them around to keep them separate so they don’t stick together (Photo 5)

  • Fry until golden brown all over, 1-2 minutes

  • Remove from fryer and set aside in a bowl lined with paper towels

  • Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and the phytoplankton powder (Photos 6-7)

  • Slice the siphon part of the clam diagonally in 1cm thick slices and set aside in a small bowl (Photo 8)

  • Mix a heaping tablespoon of the preserved citrus condiment with the razor clam siphons, to coat them, and set aside (Photo 9)

  • Arrange the siphon part, mixed with the citrus condiment on the plate first

  • Lay the fried clam bellies on top

  • Top with the microgreens, a pinch of Maldon’s sea salt, and freshly grated orange zest (Photo 10)

  • Using a small spoon or a squeeze bottle, put dollops of aioli all over the dish

****Note on Phytoplankton Powder
This Phyto-plankton powder comes from Browne Trading Market, on Commercial Street in Portland. They have an exclusive trading connection with Veta La Palma, an incredible example of sustainable fishing. The farm was founded on a plain in Spain that was originally a swamp. By a previous generation, it was drained for cattle in a bad agricultural decision and ended up as a desert. In order to revitalize the rich ecosystem and raise fish there, Veta La Palma flooded the plain and introduced marine microalgae. Unlike other commercial fisheries, they encourage the natural pecking order and allow the aquatic birdlife to thrive in the area (no pun intended)! Their primary product is their marine plankton powder. A vibrant seaweed-green, this powder packs a punch – it is extremely nutritious, packed with antioxidants and essential minerals, and even a small amount carries the intense flavor of the sea. $70 – $100 depending on size

Chris Gould | Executive Chef and Co-Owner of Central Provisions and Tipo restaurants

Chef Chris Gould began his culinary career at the age of 15 as a summer dishwasher and prep cook at the Bethel Inn in Bethel, ME. When it came to deciding where to go for college, his chef, Steve Stone, pointed him toward The Balsams Hotel in Northern New Hampshire. The Balsams had an accredited ACF (American Culinary Foundation) apprenticeship program where Chef Chris trained under several Certified Master Chefs and Bakers such as Chef Roland Henin, Chef Phil Learned, and Chef Steve James. After graduating from The Balsams, Chris landed in Boston in 2006 and started working at Clio Restaurant as a garde manger cook, and quickly elevated through the ranks of many highly-awarded restaurants in Boston.

Chris and his wife Paige spent two years making Central Provisions a reality, and in February 2014 they opened the doors to national acclaim, including being nominated for best new restaurant in the nation by the James Beard Foundation. Three years later they opened their second Portland restaurant, Tipo specializing in Neapolitan pizzas, pasta, and small plates.

 
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